Barbados

2008-04-11
By Miki Turner

One of the sweetest experiences I’ve ever had occurred the first time I stepped off a plane on a tropical island and inhaled that intoxicating scent of jasmine. The first time that aroma ever penetrated my nostrils was during my first trip to Barbados nearly 10 years ago. It was still there when I landed at the Bridgetown Airport last month.

There have been a lot of changes in this small country since my initial visit. Back then the airport was about a third of the size it is now and there were certainly no high-end gem and specialty shops lining the pathway to the gates. When an airport undergoes that type of renovation, you immediately know that there is more change afloat on the outside.

There was.

The people are still friendly, the vast array of restaurants are still great, but the niche hotels are now being overshadowed by big chain hotels such as the Marriott and the Four Seasons and in a few years the once-picturesque West Coast might look more like the Vegas Strip than paradise.

I wanted to rediscover an island I fell in love with so many years ago when my cousin and I flew down on a whim for a little R&R at Cobbler’s Cove. Those were the good ‘ol days. I was happy to see, however, that some of my old haunts were still there.

Brown Sugar is a popular restaurant in Bridgetown that features a scrumptious lunch buffet with Bajan staples like flying fish, macaroni pie, yams, pumpkin soup and rice and peas among other dishes. Also, the Pelican Craft Center, a collection of brightly colored clapboard houses near the marina, has some of the best handmade crafts on the island.

---

Launch Slide Show! 

---

And the Bridgetown shopping strip is always fun. There are a plethora of precious gem shops like Columbian Emeralds, Little Switzerland, The Royal Shop and Diamonds International nestled in between the hokey souvenir shops, fast food spots and department stores. Although there are better deals on gems and watches in Jamaica, the Virgin Islands and St. Maarten, a sister can do some real damage in those shops with prices 30 to 50 percent off U.S. retail.

I also discovered some new favorites such as Bridgetown’s Port-O-Trade novelty store, the Waterfront Café, which features jazz sets at night; and a sister named Azizah who makes the most remarkable jewelry out of copper and other metals. Azizah doesn’t have a shop, but if you call her, she’ll come meet you!

Even though I much prefer the West Coast with its quiet and pristine beaches, this time around I had fun exploring the South Coast, an area that is much more densely populated with locals and tourists. And, I should mention it is also much, much louder. I dropped my overstuffed carry-on bag at the Accra Beach Hotel, a mid-luxury hotel on Rockley Beach, an area that is akin to Navy Pier, Venice Beach, Ocean Drive or any other trendy American tourist spot. Rockley is definitely the place to be if you enjoy mixing it up with the Bajans.

The Accra property is within walking distance to the popular St. Lawrence Gap area where you’ll find loads of restaurants, rum bars, pubs, clubs and Regan, the witty and friendly manager of Pisces, an upscale restaurant overlooking the bay. If you turn up the charm, he’ll give you a free hurricane drink. The Gap is like New York City—no one ever sleeps!

Roughin’ It
The highlight of the trip for me, however, was the Island Safari land and sea tour. Guides pick you up from your hotel around 8:30 a.m. and take you through the sugar cane fields, Joe’s River Forest and a few other points of interest before hitting the rugged but amazingly beautiful East Coast. If you stop long enough to have lunch at the Atlantis overlooking the choppy Atlantic Ocean, you’ll start believing that Heaven must be like this.

This tour also gives you an opportunity to interact with the natives and see how they live.  Some of them live in dilapidated houses smaller than American closets, but it’s not about space. It’s about being content with what you have. Warning: you might want to skip breakfast before boarding the jeep because those dirt roads running through the cane fields and forests can get really rough. Your belly will be bouncing like a SuperBall.

Once you finish the land portion of the tour, you then board a catamaran and sail up the West Coast. Lunch is provided and includes all the “jungle juice” (rum punch) that you want. Those who are game—like me—can dive off the boat and snorkel with the turtles. That was pretty amazing. Some of those turtles were bigger than 4-year-olds!

Party Over There
If you want to get your groove and your grub on you absolutely have to hit the Oistins Fish Market in Christ Church on a Friday night. The fish are frying and the rumps are bumping to local Bajan sounds—including homegirl Rihanna. Her visits home are more anticipated than the Queen.

Any other night of the week just take a stroll along the South Coast. It will all be popping.

Word Up
Barbados is a lovely place, but there are rules that tourists must adhere to. Camouflage clothing is not allowed in any form. Wear it and you will be fined or arrested. Also, public cursing is a no-no. Say the wrong thing and you’ll pay for it. So, with those two things in mind, go. Eat, drink and explore while this island still has some of its natural underdeveloped charm. And even though I prefer the West Coast, you’ll get more bang from your buck on the south end.

Miki Turner has been traveling the world since she was 5. She can be reached at fourfriendsprods@gmail.com