Now is the time, and Kenya’s the Place!
(This trip took place in early April, just after the political unrest following local election results.)

Kenya is not on fire and citizens are not brandishing machetes at anything that moves.

News of country-wide civil unrest over election results spread far and wide – halting the Kenyan vacation plans of travelers around the globe. My friends were convinced I had taken leave of my senses when I told them I was on my way there to visit.  The political strife did not bother me - I am from Chicago AND I’ve worked in corporate America AND I am a firm believer in finding out the truth for myself. Plus, I figured if the more than 40,000 tourists that were in Kenya during the skirmishes returned home unscathed, my chances were pretty good.

After handing over my itinerary to my husband and making sure my immunizations were completed, the Blackberry worked, my clothes were movement-friendly, and my sunscreen, repellant, malaria medicine, and Mac lip gloss were in my carryon, I was ready to go!

Launch Slide Show! 

Day 1 - Forgot to mention, Kenya was my first trip to Africa. Finally – the motherland!

I hopped in the front with our driver David (Christian name) Ngugi (prefers to be called by this name – the N is silent). The front seat guarantees you won’t miss anything.

The poverty I’d heard about became more apparent as the road became less paved featuring crater-like potholes causing us to experience first hand the infamous “Kenyan massage”.  As we continued our drive, Ngugi pointed out Kibera, the second largest slum in Africa, site of some of the violent political protests, and a stone’s throw away from one of Former President Moi’s homes (note to self…experience Kibera up close – and take off the designer sunglasses). 

My fearlessness dissipated when I found out our group was not going to the Nairobi Hilton but to someplace on the outskirts called House of Waine.  I instantly regretted laughing-off my best friend’s advice to bring a suitcase filled with bottled water, iodine tablets, bleach, Lysol, and granola bars.  Shrugging off the assurances of our guide, I pulled out my Blackberry and furiously began a search for information on this oddly named hotel…no dice. 

By the time we pulled into the lush grounds (gasp!) of the beautiful, mansion of a boutique hotel, I was giddy with the thought of luxury after the day-and-a-half long journey from Chicago to Kenya.  Fruity welcome drink in hand, I was assisted up to my room - aptly named Safari which means “journey” in Swahili. 
 
From then on, Ngugi’s word was bond.

Thoroughly full from breakfast in the garden, we left our paradise and dropped in for a visit at Kuzuri Beads, a factory and retail store that employs mostly single Kenyan mothers to hand produce fine ceramic beads, jewelry and pottery. I am captivated by the shy smile of Grace, single mother of 3-year-old Eunice, who looks far younger than her 22 years.  Fashion with a purpose always inspires me to spend money – made-to-order necklace and matching earrings for mom. Check.
 
When you visit Kenya, please do not forget your toiletries – especially deodorant. I did - which resulted in an $8.00 purchase for a small roll-on, three days of ribbing by the Canadian journalists, and an offer by Ngugi of some Lelechwa, the African deodorant plant.   

Kenya’s wildlife that roams freely in the national parks, which was hard for me to imagine until we stopped for a visit at the Giraffe Centre and witnessed the uncaged Rothschild Giraffe wander over to the raised observation center for a little snack from the turistas. Their tongues are rough and a touch slimey – which you really do not mind until they lick you upside the head.  Don’t ask.

We went out later to a cocktail party at the renovated Nairobi National Museum.  Three glasses of a juicy South African red later, I decided it was time for a bit of beauty sleep.  The cab ride home yielded an interesting chat and a roundabout marriage proposal.  What a day…
 
Still no violence in the streets. 

Today’s travel lesson: Openness and flexibility increases your chances of an amazing experience.

Day 2  -  This was a rich learning day. While driving to Amboseli National Park and adeptly maneuvering around pitfalls and livestock in the road, Ngugi spoke about the friendliness of Kenyans (hence the waving), the tendency of city dwellers to have one wife and a couple of children at most, and his preference for the use of the word tribe vs ethnic group. As we entered Maasai territory, we talked about how their tribe measured wealth (cows), how they obtained a wife (dowry of cows), and why they drink a mixture of milk and cow’s blood (this mixture provides protein without killing the cow). We listened in silence as our guide described the difficult life of the Maasai women – they build the homes, milk the cows, collect the water from miles away, cook, and care for the children. Because of workload, Maasai men are encouraged to marry young women; some of the arranged marriages are between girls as young as eight being forced to marry men over 60 – which is illegal and has resulted in the formation of Rescue Centers that help remove Maasai young ladies out of challenging situations and send them to school. 

 As we traveled through the entrance of Amboseli National Park and began our game drive I recited in my head “The Big Five” Ngugi told us to look for while on safari - lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos.  The animals were out in force!  Antelopes, a cheetah, ostriches, buffalo, zebra, pelicans – and Maasai herding cattle and going about their daily routines.

We pulled up to the Amboseli Serena Lodge and were welcomed by a troupe of Maasai men doing a march followed up by the adumu, the traditional Masaai “jumping dance”.  The rhythmic chants of the Masaai women and the musical humming of the Masaai males matched the dance perfectly– I wanted to join in (fear not – I didn’t). Lekima Ngusi, a striking Maasai that had to be at least 6’8” (and the object, I believe, of a teeny-tiny Africa crush by one of the unmarried journalists traveling with us) was adamant about cultural preservation; “No matter what, I will always be Maasai, I love our culture, and many of us feel that way.”

Another violence free day – and I am quite relaxed.

Today’s travel lesson: Don’t makes judgments of other cultures based on Western expectations

Day 3  -  Safari.  During our game drive in Tsavo West National Park, we saw a lioness and her cubs, baboons, quick-stepping gazelles, adorable dik-dik (in the antelope family), giraffe, and a herd of elephants, complete with their matriarch.  Our visit to Mzima spring yielded sightings of hippos, one stealthy crocodile, as well as mischievous, vegetation-throwing monkeys. I stood on volcanic rock from the Shetani volcanic lava flow and marveled at a 25-foot-high termite hill.  My perfect day ended with a perfect night of chilled white wine and a lively discussion about the day, politics, and Kenyan life at the Salt Lick lodge, a lovely collection of hut-like rooms perched on stilts, each overlooking its own watering hole and linked by a suspension bridge.

Saw some violence today – between two young elephants.

Today’s travel lesson – Stand still once in a while and enjoy.