Home On Martha's Vineyard - Part 3

2009-08-19
By Skip Finley

There are a myriad number of ways to get to Martha's Vineyard; Amtrak up the east coast or fly to Boston and then onto Cape Air (on a 9-seat plane) for a 30 minute ride down to The Vineyard. Or 17 minutes from Providence. Or, take a bus from either down to Woods Hole for the 45 minute ferry ride—or to Falmouth for the 30 minute ride on the Island Queen. There are crazy expensive direct flights on US Air from DC's Ronald Reagan or New York's LaGuardia. Or, fly private because yes, this is The Vineyard—and time is money.

Most that come make ferry reservations in March and pack up the car with what one might need for an extended stay in paradise. Don't come over and rent a moped, Martha's Vineyard is not some idyllic Caribbean taste treat out of Waiting to Exhale. Mopeds are too slow for traffic and too fast for bike paths. That means their 25-30 MPH takes 45 MPH traffic hostage on our tiny roads and WE do not like it. That means you are sure to get “dusted off” when a 20 foot long pick up or 5,000 pound SUV passes as close to you and as deliberately as possible. Yes, the constables frown on that type of thing—if they see it. In other words, if you rent a moped take along an extra pair of underwear. And you're going to look like a dufus.

The Woods Hole Martha's Vineyard Steamship Authority ferries arrive at either Vineyard Haven or Oak Bluffs. Vineyard Haven is a tad more retail-busy-utilitarian but when you drive off the ferry at Oak Bluffs you'll be greeted by a post card pretty Victorian park (Ocean Park) better than the dream sequence of the best movie you've seen.

On a granular level, Oak Bluffs includes the areas of Farm Neck, Eastville, The Highlands, Sengekontacket, Lagoon Heights, East Chop, Hart Haven, and others. But The Tabernacle grounds and The Cottage City Historical District—The Copeland District—are the jewels of Martha's Vineyard.

In 1787, John Saunders, an African American minister, is believed to have been the first Methodist on the island who preached to the Black and Native American people at Farm Neck at what is called Pulpit's Rock. The Methodist religion was the growth engine of the Town of Oak Bluffs, settling into the tabernacle grounds bordered by Circuit Avenue. In the 1860's the Oak Bluffs Land and Wharf Company built our Cottage City Historic District—one of two towns[1] in the world completely built at one time—designed by Robert Copeland. Our family house is in this area and was built in 1872—we are the 5th family to own it and the fourth to live in it.

The early Methodists lived in tents in an ever expanding circle and to differentiate them, used elaborate ropes that were to become the ‘gingerbread' decorations of most of the homes in the two districts. In fact, many architectural historians claim that our “Camp Ground Gothic Revival” carpentry is America's only original architecture. The Tabernacle District is registered as a National Monument and there are over 300 other homes in Oak Bluffs that are historically significant. When you get off that ferry, beneath that chamber of commerce blue sky are some of the most colorfully unique homes in the country.

Colors are amazing on the Island—and the Island bursts into life in late spring, which for us is around Independence Day in July when the visitors return. And that's one of the many ways WE know you're not from here. Gators and Borsalinos? Nah. Throwback jerseys? OK if you're 20 and younger. Jacket and ties-funerals only. If you're a guy You can spend an entire summer on The Rock in a pair of docksiders with 3 bathing suits, 2 pairs of shorts, a dozen T shirts, 2 pairs of jeans and two Tommy Bahama outfits. Ladies can double that with nicer fabrics to get by—but of course they won't. Some rock star sunglasses won't be a bad investment but the rest of the bling is usually redundant—everyone knows you can afford to be here. At the end of the day, if it's comfortable it works.

Read PART II of Home on Martha’s Vineyard by Skip Finley.